What.an amazing two weeks!

What an amazing two weeks in Eastern Europe. I have had the opportunity to be with some terrific people and I really enjoyed travelling with everyone. I believe I have learned a lot of history during this trip. I feel closer to my father, of blessed memory, and his family. Upon my return I will be researching his journey to America. Our tour guide Philip was amazing. He presented the history in a way I could actually understand (or begin to understand) what and how the holocaust happened.

Our trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau was exactly how I thought it would be. I felt sick to my stomach when I witnessed the ways the Nazi’s tortured people. There were so many people visiting from everywhere imaginable judging by the vast number of languages. Our tour guide explained how people lived in the camps, some surviving for months, others for even less. An awful place that I feel I never have to return to.

On Monday we travelled by bus from Krakow to Warsaw. On the route I saw a lot of trees and farm yards. In the past I have heard stories from survivors on how they hid in the trees during the day and walked at night. I just could not imagine it. But now after seeing the landscape I felt like I could see the shadows of people in the woods.

Being in Warsaw was certainly an eye opener. I had heard of the Warsaw Ghetto but could not understand what our ancestors were dealing with.

Today we visited the Jewish Museum of Warsaw. We learned about how the Jewish people came to Poland and if they were accepted or not. We learned that where we stood in the museum was the actual train stop that took Jewish people to the concentration camps.

Last night, a group of us went out to dinner and had a fabulous meal. At dinner we talked about when we watch a movie about the Holocaust we certainly would understand the area and the situation of the Jewish people. Clearly, this trip had an impact on all of us, yet in different ways; our family stories differ, as do our emotions. There is certainly no way that anybody could be left untouched by this trip across a relatively small part of Europe controlled by a raving psychotic who was able to influence his own nationals to act in the disgusting manner in which they did.

We will be meeting with the group for our final dinner then back to our busy schedules in St. Louis. Feel free to stop by my office to hear more stories.

Rosalie Stein

Restoring My Faith

When I thought about Poland and the Jews, I thought about the movie, “Escape from Sobibor” in which 300 of the 600 inmates escape from the extermination camp in October 1943. What I remember most about the movie is the end of the movie which tells what happens to the main characters. Alan Arkin, playing the role of Leon Feldhendler, returns to this home in a Polish town only to be murdered by townsfolk because he was Jewish. I was stunned and remembered crying and thinking what kind of people could kill a neighbor who has succeeded in escaping from a concentration camp with only the hope of coming home. The same thing happened in Krakow when some of the Jews saved by Oskar Schindler returned home. A mini pogrom took place, in which one survivor was killed and the rest felt unwelcome by their neighbors because the neighbors had already “squatted” in the Jews’ homes, never expecting the Jews to return.

​That very negative feeling about Poles was completely turned upside down when I met Sebastian, now a staff member and former volunteer of the Krakow Jewish Community Center. He told us that he grew up in a small town in Poland where 70% of the town was Jewish before World War II. His grandparents told him how their neighbors, good Poles who happened to be Jewish, vanished overnight. Sebastian learned what an important role Jews played in Polish society and decided to do something about it. He started volunteering at the JCC 10 years ago when there were 100 members; now there are over 600. The JCC has a preschool and volunteers (all not Jewish) serve a Friday night Shabbat dinner which we were able to enjoy. Sebastian wants to help fill the “Hole in the Heart” of Krakow by doing whatever he can to help revive the Jewish community. What makes this story even more incredible is that Sebastian is not Jewish; that’s right, he is not even Jewish. It is his goal to help right the wrong caused by the extermination of the Krakow Jewish community.

​I cried when I saw the movie and I cried when I hugged Sebastian thanking him for restoring my faith in humanity. Same emotion, but very different tears. Thank you Sebastian.

-Joe Pereles

A day in Krakow

I have to admit I never saw Schindler’s List – I just couldn’t watch the movie. Today we visited Schindlers Factory Museum. What an incredible story and museum. We also went to the town square, viewed the Holocaust memorial of chairs and heard the amazing story of a pharmacist who helped many families in the ghetto.

I do not have expertise in WW II history. I have learned more on this trip than I had even imagined. I have a very good friend whose father was a survivor of the Holocaust. He was from Poland and was in the camps for several years. When I would speak with him, he had a very strong Polish accent. In my wildest dreams I never thought I would ever visit his homeland. Not only am I here in Poland, but we will be driving by his hometown of Ozorkow.

Tomorrow we are visiting Auschwitz and Berkanau. I am not sure what to expect and am a bit nervous. What an ugly past here in Poland.

-Rosalie Stein

No one waits for me there

It is a gray cool morning in Prague after a few sunny days, going on the bus and driving. Signs direct us towards "Brno." This city, without me ever wishing it, becomes meaningful for me. It's got a piece of my heart. I didn't want it but this is just the way it is.

I'm sharing Zvi's story but it's not "his story." It's his story through my eyes. And my eyes have seen complicated, painful, happy and weird situations. Ups and downs and what is yet to come, I'm yet to see revealed.

I'm sharing the story with the details I feel comfortable sharing, and when I'm done I'm getting a big hug; there are those who sympathize, and those who tell a similar but different story. I'm happy I shared.

On the way to Hungary, I search the map and find the location of my grandmother's home town - Nyiregyhaza. Two hours drive away from Budapest. In a dazzling speed I reveal the details, the history, the story behind the events but what about the people? I will not visit Nyiregyhaza this time. There is no time. It's not that someone waits for me there. No one waits for me there.

My great-grandma Sara Bruier and great-grandfather Menachem Goldberger had nine children. They themselves and four of their kids, including my grandma Erica, came to Israel (Palestine) following Herzl and the Zionist dream before the Holocaust. First the parents with their son Binyamin and then during the following years my grandma Erica, her sisters Luiri (Dvora) and Erinca (Rivka) followed them.

The fate of the other five children is well known. Five children were murdered. I know the names of two of them: my grandma's sister, Gittel Goldberger Goldstein was murdered in Auschwitz in 1944. My grandma's brother, Dr. Chaim Goldberger was murdered after returning from Israel back to Europe in search of lost family members. Chaim was an educator, head of a school in Israel, who went back to the horror to try and save his family and he was lost without a trace.

And what was the fate of Nyiregyhaza Jews? In 1930, there were 5,134 Jews living in the small town, making up about 10% of the general population. They were traders, tradesman, craftsman or other professions.

When World War Two broke out, Jewish refugees escaping from Poland and Slovakia came to the town of Nyiregyhaza and the local Jews supported them. The situation got worse in 1942, when men began to be taken to work for the Hungarian army. In April 1944, the Nazi SS soldiers arrived in Nyiregyhaza, gathered all Jews and forced them to move to the Ghetto. This Ghetto was made up of 23 houses, inside of which 11,000 people tried to survive in inhuman conditions. No plumbing, no running water.

In May 1944, the Nazis moved the Ghetto to local farms, where many people did not even have a roof over their heads. If all of that was not enough, a Typhoid epidemic then erupted and took the lives of many.

From this point, from May to June 1944, all the Jewish people from Nyiregyhaza were sent in four transfers to Auschwitz, 11,000 people in 4 one-way transfers.

Miraculously, 1000 survivors came back from the hell of Auschwitz. In 1946 surprisingly we found 1,210 Jews in Nyiregyhaza, but 25 years later only 180 stayed. If you survived the horror of Auschwitz and returned home, you probably understood that you don't have anything to return to, and you start to wander again.

This is what was most painful for me in Mikolov.

In Mikolov, where we visited on our journey, there once lived a flourishing Jewish community, one of most important and influential in Jewish history. Jews were one 50% of the general population!

When our guide told us their story she first used the term "disappeared״ - "when the Jews disappeared." I was mad! They did not disappear; they were murdered!

She continued, and said that 20 survivors returned to Mikolov but did not stay for long. I was furious. "They did not stay."

Similar to Nyiregyhaza, the survivors, beaten and bruised, against all odds, a remnant of their former strength they returned home - returned only to find out that their neighbors were living in their houses - those who murdered (even if not directly, but also by not protecting, hiding or uprising) they are also the ones who inherit.

And to see a town like Mikolov empty of Jews: it hurts, it burns, it make me mad. And the fact that the guide knew enough to exactly say that in Mikolov today, there are only "two half-Jews" living was no less troubling to me. I would feel more comfortable if she would say she had no idea how many Jews are living there - just because she doesn't know who is Jewish and who is not...

-Yael Vatury

A Day in Budapest

As we drove into Budapest in the dark last night, we could see the city magically light up. Tired after a long day, but again filled with very interesting experiences, little did any of us know what a fantastic day today would be and the treasure we would find. This morning we were greeted by Julia, our Budapest native guide who is a Holocaust survivor. Through her eyes and emotions we experienced Budapest like I personally, never imagined. I feel very fortunate that our treasure and jewel, Julia was so open with us about her life. Thank you Julia for entering our lives. And thank you Yaffa for arranging Julia to be our guide.

Tonight's dinner and cruise down the Danube River was so relaxing and beautiful on a weather perfect night.

Many thanks to Rabbi Jim, Amy, Yael and Hana for making this East Europe trip so insightful and meaningful.

-Brenda

The most emotional day of the trip

I did not realize just how close the Jews of Hungary came to escaping the horrors of the Holocaust.

From reading history, I knew the government of Hungary collaborated with the Nazi's. At least two divisions of the Waffen SS were Hungarian nationals.

The perfidy of Eichmann was at it's disgusting heights as Eichmann tried to ransom Hungarian Jews..when that nefarious plot failed, Eichmann shifted precious transportation resources from the army's facing the Soviets, to shipping Hungary's remaining Jews to Auschwitz (until the Soviet army was at the gates of the many Polish death factories.)

Our local guide is a survivor, whose compelling story hopefully will be told at our congregation.

We are off to Krakow tomorrow including visits to the Schindler factory and museum. I just reread the book, and while Schindler was not a moral paragon ,he did save the lives of approximately 1100 Jews who he diverted from Auschwitz.

-Stu Katz

A memory of Prague

After a day of touring who wouldn't stop at 5:15 before dinner to have Trdelnik -a pastry rolled in cinnamon sugar, hot off the charcoal coals, with chocolate sauce, vanilla ice cream, strawberries and more chocolate sauce. I saved calories by omitting the whipped cream!

- Sue Matlof

In search of a precious legacy

​My father had once mentioned to me the town of Strakonice located in Czechoslovakia. That was a place where the Pereles family had roots. I really didn’t give it a second thought until the Shaare Emeth Heritage trip to Eastern Europe. Where was Strakonice in relation to Prague I wondered? Well, it was about an hour south of Prague so I arranged to have a driver take me there and visit the cemetery where I was sure, after conducting some on-line research, there were Pereles’ buried. This desire to visit the ..cemetery became more important after seeing the Pereles name in Terezin and in Prague when listing individuals who had died in the Holocaust.

​Jan Blazek, a 2nd year law student, picked me up at our hotel and drove straight to the cemetery which is located between 2 farm homes just west of Strakonice. The problem was that the gate to the cemetery was locked. We asked the owner of the house located to the east of the cemetery if she had a key and her response was no, you had to go to the city offices and get it. Off we went to where she directed us, but it was to no avail. We ended up 2 stops later at the offices of the Castle Museum, where Blanka Madova gave us the key to the lock on the cemetery gate. She even recognized the Pereles name as she had done some previous research of which I will try to get a copy. We then went back to the cemetery. I donned my yamaka and entered this very holy ground

​The cemetery was founded at the end of the 17th century. Research indicates that the oldest legible inscription is from 1736. The cemetery is surrounded by a high stone wall that I would have tried climbing over if we hadn’t gotten a key. The wall has protected the graves from desecration. A small house that was used as a mortuary is still there. While my research indicates that the last funeral took place in the 60’s, I didn’t see any tombstones after the early 40’s. I may have just missed them. There were no funeral services during World War II as the Jews were transported out of Strakonice. By the way, there is a Shoa monument in town near the castle.

​While I can’t say for certain how I am related to any of the Pereles’ whose names I have seen over the last few days (that research will continue), I can say for certain, that I believe I personally lost family members during the Holocaust. They may have been distant family members, but family members all the same. This trip now has become my personal heritage trip as one of my great grandfathers was born in Budapest on December 22, 1877. Thank you Rabbi Bennett for encouraging me to go on this trip and thank you Brenda for joining me. I hasten to point out that this trip was not high on my bucket list and I still will never buy a German car!

-Joe Pereles

Free day in Prague

Let's focus on the word FREE. I am free and able to take this Jewish Heritage Journey to Eastern Europe. As I walked 10,000 steps my eyes were constantly looking at all the beautiful buildings, quaint streets, hundreds of church spires, people walking on a beautiful day filled with sunshine and warm breezes, I realized that I may never have had this experience with new friends, had the war damaged Prague.

-Sue Matlof

Prague gratitude

In this season of re-birth, my heart blossoms with gratitude as do the tulips of Prague. 

-Anonymous

Walking (and Walking, and Walking through old Prague)!

Walking (and Walking, and Walking) through old Prague gave us a strange feeling of how new the United States is in history. It is incredible to walk through a synagogue that has been in continuous use since the 1200's. The story of the mythical golem, almost seemed real when you visit the place where fictional stories (see Kellerman's The Golem of Hollywood) which ascribes the myth as it were true and how the Frankenstein's monster became an analog of the Golem, which was created from river bank mud, an artificial being crated for protecting ancient Jews was created.

Visiting the Jewish cemetery created in 1492 and then the old Spanish Synagogue was shocking and amazing. We did not know that the Nazi's defined Prague as the repository of a race they were wiping off the face of the earth. Judaica from all over Czechoslovakia was stored at the old Spanish Synagogue...Rabbi Bennett is an amazing font of knowledge making us able to relive the ancient history of our fellow-coreligionists from past centuries.

We are truly blessed to belong to Shaare Emeth to have had the blessing of both Rabbi Stiffman (who took us to Israel) followed by Rabbi Jeff's successor, Rabbi Jim who designed an incredible Jewish heritage tour of Eastern European Jewry and the the nightmare which was the Holocaust...An emotional horror is building in my mind for when when we travel to Poland the site of the horrors of horrors.

As American Jews we believe it our solemn duty to by able to face any and all deniers of what was the reality of Nazism.
-Stu and Pam Katz

Inhumanity is hard to absorb and understand

It is hard to absorb and try to understand the absolute inhumanity of the Nazi regime. The reality of the perversity of the demented minds that took over rational behavior in 193ermany is horribly mirrored in this election by the candidates of both parties.

Walking the ground that Hitler did and then being able to spit on the approximate spot where Hitler and Eva Braun were burned was very satisfying. I wish we had more time to study the museum placed adjacent to Gestapo headquarters the actual torture cells under Prince Albertsrasse. The site is within a couple of meters of the only walls built to keep an entice nation imprisoned.
-Stu katz

"How amazing, we all do have a lot in common!"

We have been gone for five days and I feel like it has already been a couple of weeks.  Travelling with a group is always fun for me.  It gives me a chance to meet new people and learn about their lives in St. Louis and what brought them on this trip.  

Bob (my husband) has travelled to many of the cities on this tour but he really wanted me to see Prague and we thought that this would be a great opportunity to see the historic Jewish sites.  Let me tell you it was the right decision for us. I absolutely loved Berlin. Actually we decided we would like to bring our children back to Berlin and show them the history of the Jews in Berlin.  What an amazing city.  I never thought that I would enjoy Germany.

When we lived in Grand Rapids Michigan we hosted an exchange student from Germany.  Bob contacted Tom (our student) who now lives in Berlin and he and his family came to worship with us at the Temple and spend some time meeting our St. Louis friends.  It is always interesting meeting local Jewish people.  It was very interesting talking about their parents and grandparents history in Germany. Of course his two children had a bus load of new grandmas and grandpas.  Of course he spoke with Bob and I about their financial problems at their synagogue.  How amazing, we all do have a lot in common!

When I was a student I learned about Terezin a place that the Nazi’s took the Jews before sending them to the concentration camps. But, walking throughout the area, which looks like a quaint village but has a horrible past was quite moving.  It was a beautiful day, sun shining and I felt sick to my stomach knowing what had happened there.  We were taken to one area of one of the small buildings to a very small room.  In this room we saw Hebrew written on the walls and realized this small room is where many of the Jews prayed.  Our group came together to learn about the words on the wall and we recited the Shema together.  When I get home and I recite the Shema I will remember the people praying in this room together during their darkest days.

Rosalie Stein

"Bucket List"

Ann and I, along with the remainder of the Shaare Emeth Jewish Heritage Tour of Eastern Europe group, finished our third full day and are settled in to our hotel in Prague. Ann and I have had Eastern Europe on our bucket list or some time. So-just a short blog post to recommend that you add three things to your bucket list.

1) Eastern Europe--Having only been to Berlin for two days, having toured Terezin, and now seeing the old city of Prague, I'm convinced that it was a good choice for us to have had it on our list.

2) Jewish Heritage Tour--We've only been partially exposed to what we will see and feel over the two weeks, but there is no doubt that in the same way going to Israel should be on everyone's bucket list, so should this Jewish Heritage Tour.

3) Traveling with Jim and Amy Bennett and others from the congregation--The trip is well planned, welcoming, and energizing (although after walking non-stop for three days, my feet likely don't agree with me).

#1 by itself--great
#1 and #2 together--meaningful
#1, #2, and #3 together--magical

Take out your list and add these items.

More later,
Alan Spector

Early Reflections on Eastern Europe

The first few days of this adventure have been fascinating and moving. It has been an exercise in contradiction. From standing on the ground above Hitler's bunker surrounded by apartment buildings, to seeing Check Point Charlie stationed at the entrance of a retail district with places like McDonalds close by, to wandering through the "Memorial to Jews killed in Europe," all while watching children happily playing on the monuments. From bullet holes on original buildings to post modern architecture on the same street, we seem to be drawn back into history and then immediately reminded how far this area of the world has come. Can't wait to see what tomorrow brings.
-Julie Winkle

A Day in the life of Berlin

Today we devoted our time to an exploration of the city of Berlin. Awakening refreshed, we drove a short distance to the east side of Berlin, across what was the wall. A walking tour took us through the heart of this bustling metropolis, past many of the imposing buildings remaining from the glory days of Germany of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The architecture speaks of years of political and economic power and more. Yet, as many of these towering buildings have been transformed into museums and monuments, it is clear that the rise and then fall of the Third Reich left an unspeakable imprint on history and on this city. After a break at the touristic "Checkpoint Charlie," where we enjoyed a mid-day snack of small sandwiches, coffee and sweets, our walking tour took a darker tone, as we first walked along the remains of part of the wall separating East and West Berlin, visited a museum dedicated to the "Topography of Terror" and then visited an inconspicuous parking lot that lies above what was once the bunker where Hitler took his own life. Our tour concluded with a visit to the unspeakably powerful "Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe," Berlin's Holocaust memorial created by the artist Peter Eisenman, and a visit to the Brandenburg Gate. A day exhausting in both physical and psychological ways was tempered by beautiful weather and a few hours to rest, explore, shop or simply to enjoy Berlin's delightful culture and population. After time for dinner, we concluded our evening with a private tour of the Reichstag, the German Parliament building, filled with powerful reminders of the past and hopes for a better future. We returned to our hotel ready for a good night's sleep to prepare for our journey by bus tomorrow to visit the Nazi concentration camp called Terezin and then a short drive on to arrive in Prague for a visit to this historic and beautiful city. It's hard to believe we've only been traveling for two days, inspired by this important and moving history and place.

Our Group at the Brandenburg Gate 

Our Shaare Emeth Jewish Heritage Journey to Eastern Europe begins!

Friday, April 1 -- Our Journey begins! Our group of 21 arrived in Berlin, tired but excited from our travels and ready for our first day of touring here. After dropping our bags at our hotel, we met our Berlin tour guide, Alexander, who brought us to the old Jewish neighborhood in East Berlin and gave us an overview and walking tour of this historic and important city. Here, a once thriving Jewish community witnessed the birth of the Third Reich. A city almost complete demolished by the Allied powers bombing during WWII has been remarkably reborn, and thrives today. Our afternoon concluded with a visit to the powerful Jewish Museum. After a much needed rest, we welcomed Shabbat at the Sukat Shalom synagogue, the only Reform Synagogue in Berlin. A warm and lovely Shabbat evening service, led by Rabbiner (Rabbi) Dr. Andreas Nachama and Kantorin (Cantor) Esther Hirsch ushered in the much needed rest of a good night's Shabbat sleep! Though much of the music was unfamiliar, and the German translations of the prayers and a sermon delivered in German lost its meaning on us, the warmth of this thriving congregation and their welcoming spirit made us feel happy to be with them. An inspiring hour of socializing over a light dinner followed the service, and we left knowing that Reform Judaism is thriving once again here in Berlin. It was sobering to realize that the Jews now rebuilding Jewish life in Germany are not those who once lived here before this community was decimated, but it was equally compelling to understand that the more than 20,000 Jews, from the former Soviet Union, from Israel and from around the globe who now call Berlin their home are seeking to also bring new meaning into Jewish life here.

Throughout the next two weeks, as we complete our time here in Berlin, and then move on to Terezin, Prague, Budapest, Kraków, Auschwitz-Birkenau, and Warsaw, we hope to share our reflections and thoughts on this amazing journey and its impact upon each of us. We invite you to join us on this adventure....to see what unfolds through our

Rabbi Bennett with Rabbi Nachama

Alan Spector with Rabbi Nachama